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“Pride
of Africa” by Sally McDonald
Aberdeen Evening Express City Edition,
14 August 2004
“The
noise of the tiny six-seater aircraft is so loud I can
barely hear myself think. Below an eagle soars while
loping giraffe and galloping zebra chase our shadow.
We’re heading for the pulsating heart of breathtaking
Botswana – the lush and verdant wetlands of the
Okavango Delta.
It’s
the earth’s biggest inland delta – a staggering
5,700 sq miles – holding 95% of the country’s
water. But, unlike any other river in the world, the
Okavango never reaches the sea, but dies in the desert
sands of Northern Botswana. However, the great draw
of the delta is the multitude and variety of wildlife
it attracts. Excitement mounts as the parched ground
gives way to green and we begin our descent to a dusty
air strip where a Land Rover waits. We know we’re
close to the camp, but it’s so eco-friendly we
can’t even see it. Xakanaxa – pronounced
Ka-can-na-ka – is in the heart of the Moremi Game
Reserve, rates as one of the best game viewing areas
in Africa.
Within
minutes we are bombarding our poor guide Montso with
questions, “Will we see the Big Five – are
there plenty of lions?” We get our answer minutes
after arrival. As smiling staff balancing bags on their
heads make for our tents Lettie, our hostess, quietly
advised, “When you are in your tent at night you
must stay there until we come to wake you in the morning.
The lions come into camp. ‘You’re perfectly
safe inside but if you need us at night, use that.”
She is pointing to a handheld alarm.
Xakanaxa
– run by Moremi Safaris and Tours – overlooks
a lagoon on the Khwai River. We’ve chosen to go
on our first game drive and are treated to endless sightings
of impala, kudu, wildebeest and baboon. Lumbering, trumpeting
elephants – some with young – kick up dust
on the track before us. Then, crashing through thicket,
we suddenly come upon a small group of young lions playing
in a tree. Out comes the camcorder – after all,
this may be my only chance at such close quarters; I
need not have been so hasty. Soon after we spy another
group – a mother and cubs. The radio bursts into
life – a big male is spotted not too far away
and off we go. “There!” someone gasps. Not
a dozen feet away, his huge head and great golden mane
are visible just above the tall grass. Captivated, I
film as he yawns, baring his teeth, his amber eyes boring
right into me. I’m barely aware of the rustling
below my elbow, but out of the corner of my eye spot
the guy to my right leap out of his skin. I put down
the camera just in time to see a large lioness weave
her way towards the rest of the pride – so close
I could almost pat her…”
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